Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List

Automatic Chicken Waterer

The original Automatic Chicken Waterer.

The Automatic Chicken Waterer has been doing well for me and I know that many are viewing my site for the design. Hopefully it inspires ideas into creating a similar or expanded version. The Automatic Chicken Waterer concept can be customized many different ways so there is not one right way, but the right way for YOUR situation. My design uses a 5-gallon bucket as the frame and reservoir.

Below is a parts list for the Automatic Chicken Waterer with the 5-gallon bucket for the frame and reservoir. I tried to put together a few of the options, but make sure and identify what will work for you and your specific situation. I am in South Florida and we deal with heat and sand. The winters are not cold enough to freeze the water, but the summers are hot enough to worry about water that is hot. I keep my automatic chicken waterer shaded for this purpose and the sand has to get washed out periodically by cleaning out or changing the cup.

The Automatic Chicken Waterer is made up of 3 parts. The reservoir, supply, and the cup or bowl. I will identify each of the parts within these labels. I have included links to Amazon.com via affiliate links so just hover over the link to get an idea of what they look like. Also some parts may not be priced efficiently and may be better to get at your local hardware store.

Automatic Chicken Waterer Reservoir

The reservoir in my design is a 5 gallon bucket. Any “tank-like” item that is big enough, will hold water, keep light out, and be able to be covered will do. You also need to be able to drill through it. I would use a black bucket for the purpose of not letting any light in. A lighter colored bucket would be good if you are able to put the reservoir in a hidden location that doesn’t get any direct sunlight. Again, you would customize it to your situation.
5 Gallon White Bucket & Lid – Durable 90 Mil All Purpose Pail – Food Grade – BPA Free Plastic –
Black bucket only – Hydrofarm HG5G 5-Gallon Black Bucket
Black bucket only – Encore Plastics 250003 Bucket Space Black 5 Gallon
Black bucket with lid – Dynamic Enviro Paintware KK053000 5-Gallon Enviro Recycled Plastic Pail Lid
Blue bucket with lid – Petco Bucket, 5 gallons, Color: Blue
Black bucket with screw on lid – Bucket Kit, One Black 5 Gallon Bucket with Black Gamma Seal Lid
Screw on lid to retrofit 5-gallon bucket – The Gamma Seal Lid, Black
Here is a heater for a 2-10 gallon aquarium in case you are in snow country – Tetra 26447 Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt

 

Automatic Chicken Waterer Supply

REMEMBER THIS PORTION MAY BE UNDER PRESSURE!
The supply consists of either a water hose or hard line water supply, or even a combination of both. You could run pvc from the automatic chicken waterer to a select location and then a water hose from there (so you could remove it when you want to and not worry that it is running water all the time). Then either a toilet fill valve, which is in my design, or just a way to fill it with water periodically. There are other types of float valves out there, but the toilet fill valves are straight up and down, and already have a way to hook up to a water supply line. This section will take us from hooking up to a water source (or not) to filling the reservoir.

Toilet Fill Valve – Float valve

Standard toilet fill valve – Fluidmaster 400A Anti-Siphon Toilet Tank Fill Valve

Drill Hole for Toilet Fill Valve

1″ paddle bit to drill the hole for the toilet supply valve and also for drilling the thru-wall for the cup – DEWALT DW1582 1-Inch by 6-Inch Spade Drill Bit


Water Supply Line

The following three items are the same, but each is a little different type. 7/8″ to connect to the toilet supply valve, then a 3/8″ compression (which typically hooks up to the supply valve on the wall behind the toilet). This is strictly to get from the toilet fill valve to regular pvc (the 7/8″ thread does not exist in pvc that I know of, there may be a brass fitting somewhere, but I have not been able to find one) then everything is pretty standard from there.
Fluidmaster PRO1T12CS Click-Seal Stainless Steel 12-Inch Toilet Supply Line
This one appears to have metal connections on both ends – Aviditi 30462AVI Stainless Steel Braided Supply Line for Toilet with Brass Steel Nuts, 3/8-Inch Compression by 12-Inch
Fluidmaster B1T12 Toilet Connector, Braided Stainless Steel – 3/8″ Female Compression Thread x 7/8″ Female Ballcock Thread, 12″ Length


Water Supply Line to PVC thread

So now we are past the toilet fill valve and getting to regular pvc – the first thing we have to do is go from compression to pipe thread. The following 3 items will get from the 3/8″ compression at the end of the toilet supply hose to 1/2″ Female pipe thread, which can then be taken 100 different directions. PVC parts are better chosen at your local hardware store where you can put the parts together and make sure you have the right sizes and parts to build what you want.
Watts LFA124 Compression Male Adapter, 3/8-Inch OD x 1/2-Inch MIP
Brasscraft 66-6-8X 3/8 OD by 1/2-Inch Female Reducing Adapter Lead-Free, Rough Brass
This achieves the same thing, but is a valve (just like the one probably in your house) – LDR 537 6101 Low Lead Shut Off Street Valve 3/8-Inch Compression x 1/2-Inch FIP, Chrome


Standard PVC Fittings to Water Supply Source

I am going to go 1/2″ pvc to the ball valve (which will give me control out at the waterer or near it) then 3/4″ from there. You can move into 3/4″ anytime by finding the right parts.

To go directly to a water hose

1/2″ male to male nipple – Banjo NIP150-SH Polypropylene Pipe Fitting, Short Nipple, Schedule 80, 1-1/2″ NPT Male, 2-1/2″ Length
1/2″ female to 3/4″ female water hose (the female end of the water hose usually comes out of the water hose valve so you would have the male end to connect to) – Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose Fitting, Swivel, 3/4″ Female Hose ID x 1/2″ Female Pipe

To go directly to pvc piping

1/2″ male to slip pvc – LDR FP4 MA-112 PVC Male Adapter, 1-1/2-Inch Slip x Slip x MIP
2 feet of 1/2″ pvc – Charlotte Pipe Pvc Sch 40 Solid Pipe 1/2 ” X 2 ‘
1/2″ threaded ball valve – Homewerks VBV-P40-B3B Ball Valve, PVC Schedule 40, Female Thread x Female Thread, 1/2-Inch
1/2″ slip ball valve – PVC Schedule 40 Slip Ball Valve. Size: 1/2 inch
Now go from 1/2″ slip to female water hose thread – LASCO 15-1621 PVC Hose Adapter with 3/4-Inch Female Hose and 1/2-Inch PVC Pipe Glue Connection

 

Automatic Chicken Waterer Cup

This portion is not under pressure. For this section I am using 3/4″ pvc because the fitting is bigger and seals better on the bucket or reservoir. The 1/2″ fitting is too small, though it may work in your application. PVC parts are better chosen at your local hardware store where you can put the parts together and make sure you have the right sizes and parts to build what you want.
The cup or bowl is where the chickens or other pets would actually drink out of. The automatic chicken waterer needs to be situated so the chickens do not use it as a roost, or roost above it. I was able to salvage an old wooden table to put my automatic chicken waterer under, so this provided shade and the chickens cannot get on top of it, but can easily get in to drink as much as they want.

Thru-wall fittings

The way I have done it.
3/4″ male threads to put into the reservoir – 3/4″ slip to build cup (this same fitting will be used to fill the actual bowl) – LDR FP4 MA-34 PVC Male Adapter, 3/4-Inch Slip x Slip x MIP I believe I put the slip side in the bucket with the threads out.
Rubber gasket material – You will also use this to seal to the bowl or cup LASCO 02-1048E Rubber Sheet, 6X6-Inch and 1/16-Inch Thick I put the gasket inside the bucket so the fitting would press against it and never let the water out.
3/4″ female thread to tighten and seal to bucket – The most important thing with this is the female threads to lock and seal the pvc fitting into the reservoir so several different fittings can be used (except a cap) – LDR FP4 FA-34 Female Adapter, 3/4-Inch PVC Slip x FIP So at this point you could be slip or threads.

A way you may want to try – seems to be a little more sleek and may also work with the bowl or cup as well.
3/4″ thru-wall assembly – This should have 3/4″ female thread inside- Lifegard Aquatics 3/4-Inch Double Threaded Bulkhead

Misc. 3/4″ PVC Fittings

3/4″ pipe – Charlotte Pipe Pvc Sch 40 Solid Pipe 3/4 ” X 2 ‘
3/4″ Tee slip – LDR FP4 T-34 PVC Slip Tee, 3/4-Inch
3/4″ Tee threaded – Lasco 405-007 0.75 in. PVC Threaded Tee
3/4″ cap slip – LDR FP4 CA-34 PVC Slip Cap, 3/4-Inch
3/4″ cap threaded – Can’t find one on Amazon
3/4″ nipple 2″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 2″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 3″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 3″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 4″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 4″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 5″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 5″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 6″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 6″ Length, 3/4″ MPT

Automatic Chicken Waterer Cup

The cup can be any stronger plastic recycled item. I like to find things that will be thrown away and drill a 1″ hole through it. The cup has to be tall enough for the high water not to overflow and the low water not to run completely out. The fill valve can be adjusted so it does not have so much of a spread between the time it turns on(low water in the bowl) and the time it shuts off(full)
These should work good – Glad Food Storage Containers, Tall Entree, 3 Count
You can also use this with the watering nipples already in place – BriteTap Chicken Waterer The description says to just drill a 5/8″ hole – here is a 5/8″ bit – Bosch Daredevil DSBS1007 5/8-Inch by 4-Inch Stubby Spade Bit

Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List Short Version

Reservoir – I used a black 5-gallon bucket with a drywall bucket lid (it just snaps on)
Water supply – Toilet fill valve, 1-inch paddle or spade bit to drill hole, toilet supply line 7/8″ x 3/8″ compression, 3/8″ male compression x 1/2″ female pipe thread fitting, 1/2″ pvc piping to 1/2″ ball valve, to my water supply or you can fit it to the hose.
Cup or Bowl – 3/4″ male thread x 3/4″ slip + custom rubber gasket + 3/4″ female x 3/4″ slip (to go through bucket), 3/4″ piping to 3/4″ tee slip, down to cap to stabilize bowl, up to 3/4″ slip x 3/4″ male threads through bowl + custom rubber gasket + 3/4″ female x 3/4″ slip + 3/4″ pipe up to a Tee to easier remove bowl or cup for cleaning or replacement (See T-handle Post), The cup or bowl is tall enough so the spread in the fill valve can fill and empty, and big enough around so the chickens can get in and drink around the T-handle. I have used Tupperware, Gladware, and recycled drink containers that I cut the bottom off of.


Cheesy Chicken Ravioli

Cheesy Chicken Ravioli Finished

Cheesy Chicken Ravioli Finished

Cheesy Chicken Ravioli is a really good meal item and will have the whole family wanting this for dinner. This cheesy meal can include chicken or not and can be expanded or reduced to accommodate few or many people.

This particular version was with a 3 quart pan and will feed 4 people well.

 Items needed to make this Cheesy Chicken Ravioli dish.

  • Cheesy Chicken Ravioli Ingredients

    Cheesy Chicken Ravioli Ingredients

    Baking dish around 2″ deep (ours was 13 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ x 2″)

  • Cheese Ravioli (Usually found frozen) – This is filled with cheese as opposed to Beef Ravioli which is filled with beef. The beef ravioli is what we cook with the red sauce, but it may end up being good in this dish without adding any chicken.
  • Alfredo Sauce – We are using almost 2 full jars for this dish (15 oz. jars). The alfredo sauce can be added to or taken away from this dish for personal preference. We call this “white” sauce as opposed to “red” sauce which is tomato based.
  • Chicken – We are using “Ready to Cook” chicken breast. The chicken needs to end up as bite sized pieces. So this can be a few different kinds, but this is how we like it.
  • Parmesan cheese – We are using shredded parmesan, but you may be able to use the ground version.
  • Mozzarella cheese – again we are using shredded, which is the way you normally would get mozzarella cheese. The mozzarella cheese can be added to or taken away from this dish depending on personal preference.
Mixing up the Cheesy Chicken Ravioli

Mixing up the Cheesy Chicken Ravioli

  1. Cook the chicken thoroughly.
  2. Boil the ravioli – The ravioli will float to the top of the water when they are done. We added them to a rolling boil and they should only take 3-5 minutes to cook.
  3. Once the ravioli is finished cooking, add them to the bottom of the baking dish.
  4. Once the chicken is finished cooking, cut it into bight sized pieces and add to the top of the ravioli in the baking dish. We used 2 1/2 large breast cuts for ours.
  5. Now put one full jar (15 oz.) of Alfredo sauce on the top of the chicken and ravioli.
  6. Mix this up just so that it is evenly mixed.
  7. Add 2 handfuls of the parmesan cheese.
  8. Add 2 handfuls of the mozzarella cheese.
  9. Mix again so all these ingredients are mixed adding more Alfredo sauce if needed.
  10. Now make this mix even throughout the baking dish.
  11. Add more Alfredo sauce to the top of this – sparingly.
  12. Add more Parmesan cheese to the top – sparingly – one handful.
  13. Add more Mozzarella cheese to the top – as preferred but sparingly.
  14. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.
  15. Place pan and cook for 40 minutes or so. Monitor after 30 minutes so as not to burn the cheese.
  16. Scoop it out with a large spoon. Garlic bread might be a great addition to this.
Cheesy Chicken Ravioli Ready to Eat

Cheesy Chicken Ravioli Ready to Eat

 

 

How to Clean Blue Crab for Crab Meat

This post will focus on cleaning or processing the blue crab after they have been cooked and before any recipes will take place. Better said by separating the crab meat from the shell.

If you still have to make your blue crabs turn red check out this post –

How to Cook Crab – Blue Crabs

Ready to clean the cooked blue crab

Cooked crab ready to get started with blue crab cleaning station

After you have thoroughly cooked your newly caught or purchased blue crab, it is time to clean them so you can either eat them or process them for the meat. The first step is to get everything together so you don’t have to do it once you have gotten into the cleaning process.

  • Bowls for the refuse or shells – larger bowls so they can pile up the trash
  • Bucket – for the main body shell to temporarily store – these take up a lot of space and need a place to be.
  • Bowls for the crab meat – With a lid would be preferable so you can save the crab meat for another day in the refrigerator.
  • Newspaper – The more newspaper the better. This will be used for a staging area and then for cleaning up to store the trash. You can also catch up on the news and the latest sales while cleaning the crab meat.
  • Plastic bags – grocery bags work well, but trash bags or any other type can be used (re-use or recycled)
  • Nutcracker – for the claws mostly
  • A thin pokey tool – ice pick, wood skewer, toothpick, sometimes it helps to poke the meat out and not have to break it again.
Pulling off the crab claws

Pulling off the crab claws

Once you get all this together, spread some base newspaper out onto a counter or table. This is going to take a while so you want to do it somewhere that you are comfortable.

1 – start with your full trays of crabs and start pulling the claws off and putting them in a separate bowl. This will help the person who is processing them do the same thing over and over. If you are wanting to eat the crabs in spaghetti sauce or some other way where you want to leave the claws on, then skip over this step.

taking off the top shell of blue crab

Taking off the top shell of blue crab

2 – Pulling the main body shell off – wrap your finger around the point of the shell while holding your thumb towards the other side of the shell and pull straight up. The shell should pop off, then throw in the bucket or somewhere they can pile up. This will make a mess with the juice if you let them get away from you so hold still and don’t splatter.

Taking out the insides of blue crab

Taking out the insides of blue crab

3 – Now start removing the insides – the lungs, the front feelers, the backside, then the middle, this is the first step before washing. Shaking it into a bowl should loosen it up. Then pull all you can out. We want to remove all the yellow stuff, but this step won’t remove it completely.

Washing the blue crab bodies

Washing the blue crab bodies

4 – set these newly processed bodies onto another tray and now we are ready to wash the rest of the insides out.

5 – Once you are ready, start washing off the bodies. You should now be able to see that you only have meat and cartilage left. They should look clean and neat or all white. Make sure that all the yellow stuff is out of there. It should not hurt if there is a little residue left, but get as much as you can! These are now ready to eat (knowing they are thoroughly cooked). This post is going further than eating them now to get the meat ready for crab cakes. You can do many things with the blue crabs at this point.

Cracking the blue crab claws

Cracking the blue crab claws

Separating crab meat from the body

Separating crab meat from the body

6 – To process the claws, take the nutcracker and crack the main body of the claw right behind the claw joint. This should free it up to break it open. There is a piece of cartilage that has to be taken out, then there is a nice chunk of meat to harvest. The knuckle between the two claw sections does not have much in it unless the crabs are really big, then there might be a small chunk in it. The other part is the same, crack it open, remove the cartilage and harvest the meat.

Finished crab meat

Finished crab meat

7 – Cleaning the bodies is a little more challenging, because you have to pay attention to which bowl is the good crab meat and which bowl is the blue crab trash. Take and break the body in have. Leaving the legs on will give you something to hold onto while breaking it apart. Now take the half and put your thumb through the top of the shell, this will break the half into another half and begin to now separate the legs. Now that this is open, the crab meat should start to come out. Now as you break it apart by separating the legs from one another you will see the meat is attached to each leg. Continue and pull the good crab meat out and put into the bowl. The newspaper is now so you can just drop the pieces onto the counter while you are pulling the crab meat out. Some will go better than others and after you have done a few you will develop a style of separation.

Clean up crab mess

Clean up crab mess

8 – Cleaning up should have been taking place while these other steps were going on, especially if you had more than 1 dozen blue crabs. Take the shells and place in the newspaper that has been soiled while cleaning. Place this onto new newspaper and wrap up the trash with the top layer of newspaper, then continuing with the lower layers. Once you are comfortable with the amount of newspaper you can take this and place in a plastic bag and tie tight. Now take this bag and put into another bag. 3 bags is not out of line, because I would then take these smaller bags and put into a larger bag.

9 – Depending on what you are going to do with the garbage is where to go from here. I would put these into the freezer until garbage day. If you live close to the saltwater you may be able to put the garbage in there, of course without all the newspaper and plastic bags. If you put this in your garbage can, you may have a huge problem the next day if it sits too long. The juice will eventually leak out and leave you breathless from the stench.

Now you are ready to put this crab meat into a recipe for crab cakes, crab alfredo, seafood salad, and more.

 

WANT TO JUST WATCH THE VIDEO?

Automatic Chicken Waterer – 6 More Ideas on Drinking Cup

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Automatic Chicken Waterer - 6 more ideas for Drinking Cup

More ideas for the automatic chicken waterer drinking cup. This is a very important part of the chicken waterer. This concept is very flexible and can be customized for many different situations. One fill valve can be set up to deliver water to many different stations at one time, if needed.

  1. Adhere caps to pvc fittings before you need them. In the video I am using a 3/4″ male thread and 1″ slip fitting. I used Liquid Nails to adhere the 2 liter bottle cap to the pvc fitting. Then I drilled a hole in it to deliver the water. This can be duplicated and stored. If there is trouble with the seal of the 2 liter bottle cap that is in the automatic chicken waterer now, you have some back up fittings to eliminate down time.
  2. A traditional bowl that I documented in a previous post. You can read more about it at How To: Build an Automatic Chicken Waterer. This is a similar fitting to the water delivery fitting on the reservoir. It just needs to be small enough so the chickens can get the water around it. The bowl needs to be big enough or tall enough to capture the on/off spread of the fill valve.
  3. The rain bird sprinkler housing. This can be a Mobile Drinking Station or fitted to sit right on the reservoir.
  4. A Gatorade bottle can be used instead of a 2 liter bottle. I have a lot more 2 liter bottles to be recycled than Gatorade bottles, but the same concept would apply. I would still only drill a small 1/2″ hole in the cap, as it would add strength to keep the cap in tact as much as possible.
  5. Use a pvc pipe approximately 1″ – 2″ in size, then install some prefab watering nipples like the ones found at Avian Aqua Miser. This can be done 2 or more ways. The first is to hard line the pvc to the place you want to install the watering pipe, this method does not allow for too much adjustment. You can also use a flexible hose instead. This way it can be adjusted over time if your flock changes, or if you just want to move it. The chicken waterer nipples only have to be lower than the lowest point of the water level in the reservoir. The reservoir can be put in an elevated position to accommodate this method.

    Click the image to go right to the Amazon.com product page. This kit comes in a 2, 4, or 6 nipple kit. Everything that is needed for water delivery on your reservoir including the bits for the holes and gaskets.
  6. Use the chicken waterer nipples directly in the reservoir bucket. This will eliminate the fitting that is for the water delivery now. This method may be desired if you don’t need it to be spread out. You could set the reservoir in a predicament where the edge of the bucket hangs over and the nipples would be accessible by your birds.

    Click the images to go directly to the Amazon.com product page.
  7. I have since came up with a 7th Idea. It requires purchasing a new “cup” or water delivery design from Amazon. Automatic Chicken Waterer – 7th Idea for water delivery. Click to go to post.

These ideas can be altered to fit your specific situation. Once you get started, then you can customize your chicken waterer as time goes by to work well for you and your situation. I know from experience that it is worth the effort to eliminate the task of “changing” out the water every day. Even reducing it to once a week, or once every two weeks would be good.

Automatic Chicken Waterer – Building it

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Automatic Chicken Waterer

Build your own automatic chicken waterer

The automatic chicken waterer is a great addition to any chicken coop. This DIY project can give you time and save your effort when taking care of your chickens. Works on water pressure alone, and does not require any power. Once it is set up, it is generally maintenance free for months. The automatic chicken waterer can be built to serve many different applications, even watering other birds or animals. The possibilities are vast. This video is a step by step walkthrough in building an automatic chicken waterer for yourself. It is not hard. If you cannot get the parts, or have trouble drilling and such, I can sell you a basic kit. You can message me on Google Plus!

Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List

1 – 5 gallon bucket with tight fitting lid
2 – 1 regular toilet tank fill valve
3 – Toilet fill valve supply line
4 – PVC fittings for the delivery pipe
5 – An extra seal for a toilet tank fill valve for the deliver piping.
6 – 1″ drill bit – either paddle bit or hole saw bit

This Chicken Waterer is Great!

Once you see the basic structure of the automatic chicken waterer, you can see how the applications start to come to mind. In the future, I will be creating some more videos and take it farther. The drinking bowl, and some more ideas I have on different ways to deliver the water. Along with the nipples, that can be purchased here – Automatic Chicken Waterer nipples at Avian Aquamiser.

Now you can get started on this project. Once the automatic chicken waterer is built you can rest a little easier knowing that your chickens are well watered, even when your not home. Going out of town is not so bad now, because you know that they are, at least, getting water.

THE DRINKING BOWL IS NEXT – COMING SOON!!!!

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How to Clean a Coffee Maker

If it seems like your coffee maker is taking an awful long time to finish, you may need to clean it. It’s not dirty, the ports where the steaming hot water go through are clogged with minerals from your water. A simple process with some vinegar will do an amazing job of speeding up the coffee making process. I was amazed at how quick the coffee finishes now when I clean out my coffee maker with vinegar.

How to Clean a Coffee Pot

Pour the vinegar in the water holding area. You want to mix half vinegar and half water. Make a full pot.

Is your coffee maker slow?

Is your coffee maker taking forever to make the coffee? You may need to clean your coffee maker. This post will show you how to clean a coffee maker. It is not difficult to clean a coffee maker, it will just take some time. All you need is some vinegar, and some patience. Coffee is almost like air, especially in the morning. It just feels right.

Now the first thing to do is get finished with the coffee that is already in the pot. Rinse it out like you are getting it ready to sit for the day. Then get out the vinegar.

Pour the vinegar in the water holding area. The coffee maker in the photos is a 12 cup coffee maker. So we will use 6 cups or half of the coffee maker capacity.

How to Clean a Coffee maker

Fill it the rest of the way with water. Half vinegar and half water. Make a full pot.

 

Now fill it the rest of the way with water. If you want to use bottled or distilled water, it may be a good idea since the normal water you use may be heavy in minerals (which is what is clogging up your coffee maker in the first place). I don’t, and it seems to work fine for a while.

 


How to Clean a Coffee maker

A little cloudy, but hopefully that will go away.

 

It may look a little cloudy, but there is still some coffee from this morning in there too. It will still be cloudy, because it is cleaning it out. Once this is percolated all the way through, turn the coffee maker off. Then you want to either pour the vinegar and water mixture out or pour it into another container. This vinegar and water mixture can now be re-used to do some cleaning.

How to clean a coffee maker

Add clean water now!

1 – Pour it into the bottom of the dishwasher before you turn it on later. It will help clean out the dishwasher and your dishes from hard water stains.

2 – Use it to clean the shower or bath tub area. This is where hard water and soap leaves residue. The vinegar and water mixture will help.

3 – Vinegar is a mild acid, so it will help in other cleaning jobs as well.

How to clean a coffee maker

Looking a lot cleaner. Rinse out with fresh water.

At this point you can either run vinegar and water through it again, or go ahead and start the rinsing process.

Rinse the pot out one time, then fill it back up to as many cups as it will hold with fresh water and then fill up the water holding area. Again, you can use bottled  or distilled water or just the tap. Again, let it percolate all the way through the pot.

Now rinse it again. You can do half a pot, or a full pot. Just for another preventive measure to get the vinegar smell out. At this point, there is no reason to fear ingesting it, because it is so diluted that it is now just the smell.


How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs – Long Version

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs. This is a simple method that can be duplicated time and again to consistently boil eggs for deviled eggs. It all starts with the eggs. The best eggs are the ones that come from your chickens, but you can also buy eggs at the store.

Start with Empty water before putting in the eggs

 

 

Start with an empty pot of water and turn the burner on. Stove  burner should be turned on HIGH.
Add Eggs to the water

 

 

 

Put the eggs in the water as you turn on the stove.

Boil eggs for Deviled Eggs.

 

 

 

 

 

Now all the eggs are in the pot and it will take a minute or two to get to a rolling boil.

 

 

Raging boil for boiling eggs

 

Let the water come to a rolling boil and as soon as the rolling boil starts, time for 3 MINUTES.

Turn off the stove.

Let sit 10 minutes on the stove.

Rinse the eggs with cold water

 

 

Rinse with cold water – tap water from faucet on cold.

Drain the pot full of eggs

 

 

 

Drain out water and repeat process a time or two.

 

 

 

 

 

Swirl the pot with the eggs and water. This will crack the eggs slightly and allow some of the water to enter between the egg and shell.

 

Flush – swirl – flush – swirl – 2 or 3 times.

Put the boiled eggs in the fridge

 

 

 

 

Empty water, put in another container and place in the fridge.

 

Short Version – How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs

 

 

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs. This is a simple method that can be duplicated time and again so you can consistently boil eggs for deviled eggs. It all starts with the eggs. The best eggs
Boil eggs for Deviled Eggs. are the ones that come from your chickens, but you don’t have to own chickens to get eggs. Deviled eggs are a great addition to any function or get together.

  1. Put the eggs in the water as you turn on the stove. Stove should be turned on HIGH.
  2. Let the water come to a rolling boil and as soon as the rolling boil starts, time for 3 MINUTES.
  3. Turn off the stove.
  4. Let sit 10 minutes on the stove.
  5. Rinse with cold water – tap water from faucet on cold.
  6. Swirl the pot with the eggs and water. This will crack the eggs slightly and allow some of the water to enter between the egg and shell.
  7. Flush – swirl – flush – swirl – 2 or 3 times.
  8. Empty water and place in the fridge.

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs – Long Version

Devilled Egg Recipe – Very simple method with mustard

There are many different ways to make deviled eggs. This is one of the simpler methods that will be loved by many. This is a staple at any function and is always a welcomed dish.

This page is a summary of the process in making deviled eggs. A more detailed step by step with images and some videos will be forthcoming.

This particular recipe is with 9 eggs in the beginning with 1 casualty. There are 9 yolks in the bowl.

  1. Boil the eggsDeviled Eggs ready to go
  2. Peel the eggs
  3. Rinse the eggs
  4. 1 egg makes 2 deviled eggs
  5. cut eggs in half
  6. separate yolk from egg white
  7. put yolk in a mixing bowl – put egg white in deviled egg tray or flat tray (deviled egg tray is better so they don’t slide around in the car so much).
  8. Mash the yolk in the mixing bowl – mash until all lumps are out – this is not critical as there is more mixing ahead.
  9. Get out the Mayo – yellow mustard – spicy brown mustard (these ingredients can be replaced with other types, such as Miracle Whip and Honey Dijon. These are personal preferences that can be perfected by trial and preferred tastes).
  10. Add 2 heaping tablespoons of Mayonnaise.
  11. Go ahead and mix this up with a spatula until thoroughly mixed.
  12. Add 1 level teaspoon yellow mustard.
  13. Add 1 level teaspoon spicy brown mustard.
  14. Mix well until blended to desired consistency. Don’t be afraid to sample and add more brown spicy mustard if needed.
  15. Clean off egg whites to personal taste. If going to a function, wipe off the yolk from the flat part of the egg whites. The inside round part does not matter. It just makes the lines cleaner.
  16. Put sandwich bag into a cup with the top of the bag folded over the sides of the cup, and put the yolk mixture in it.
  17. close by sealing or twisting the top of the plastic bag, forcing the deviled yolk mixture to the bottom of the bag.
  18. Clip a bottom corner with scissors. Start small and cut bigger if needed.
  19. This will serve as an icing bag and will fill the egg whites without too much mess.
  20. once filled level, designs can be added.
    1. apply swirlies and spirals
    2. fill and over fill to fluff up
    3. use a store bought icing bag and use decorative tips.
  21. Now some different types of personal touches can be applied to the deviled eggs.
    1. sprinkle paprika powder over the finished eggs (sparingly)
    2. or just sprinkle very little paprika powder over only the deviled yolk mixture.
    3. place an olive or a sliced olive onto the top of each one.
  22. Place in the fridge – approximately 1 hour before serving.


That’s it. Please visit some of the other pages to see some of the images and videos of each of these steps.

VIDEO – Deviled Egg Recipe

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs – Short Version

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs – Long Version

Chicken Waterer – Changing the Bowl on the Homemade Automatic Chicken Waterer

Looking for Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List?

This is what makes this Chicken Waterer unique. You can remove the bowl, wash it, replace it, or then put it back. It also makes it so that it can be upgraded or changed, if it is not working like it needs to for whatever you are trying to provide water to. Chickens need clean water.

Chicken Waterer Still Kicking

 

This chicken waterer has been cleaned out a couple of times since it was installed about a year ago. Mostly by just swishing out the dirt. Sometimes the bowl would come off the waterer so that the dirt could be washed out. There is only dirt in here, and it is from the chickens having it on their beaks. It was placed under a shade maker so they would not try to roost on it. It seemed to work, as there has not been any poop in it so far. This has worked out very well as we have not had to “worry” about the water. Of course, we still feed and collect eggs every day, but this has really helped.

Chicken Waterer out of anything

This is an ordinary container. It has a little height to it, and also some width. It just needs enough to hold the depth of water for the toilet fill valve to spread, around 3″ or so. Then it needs to be wide enough for the chickens to get their head in and around the fill pipe.

 

 

1 inch paddle bit to drill hole for Chicken Waterer

The 1 inch paddle bit is the perfect size to drill the hole for the cup to change out for the chicken waterer. Using 3/4″ thread, the one inch hole fits it perfectly. The paddle bit will drift, so go slow. The drilling creates heat and starts melting the plastic. Notice there is a board underneath. This helps stabilize the bowl, but it still wants to drift.

 

 

Remove the chicken waterer bowl

 

Unscrew the Chicken Waterer T-handle and remove the existing bowl from the chicken waterer system. Let the system flush and rinse it off as desired. Having the other bowl or cup ready will limit the waste of water. It is good to flush the system out anyway.

 

Chicken waterer cup is overflowing

 

 

 

 

As you can see, the top of the water line has changed, due to the different size of the chicken waterer cup. This can be tackled with some adjustments to the toilet fill valve.

 

Adjust the chicken waterer toilet valve

 

 

There is an adjustment screw, or a holding clamp to adjust the depth of the float. If the water is overflowing, you want the float to go down so it will turn off sooner. It may only take a little to get it to turn off where you want it.

 

The finished chicken waterer bowl

 

 

 

 

The chicken waterer bowl is installed and is clean as a whistle. Now this bowl can serve as a spare when the other bowl is being cleaned.

Wash the old chicken waterer bowl

 

Wash out all the dirt from the old bowl.

 

 

 

 

 

Use mold and mildew cleaner for chicken waterer bowl

 

 

Any mold and mildew cleaner has a little chlorine in it, which will kill the algae. This is a good way to have two chicken waterer bowls that are real easy to change out and clean.

 

Chicken waterer bowl nice and clean

 

 

Now the chicken waterer bowl is nice and clean, ready for the next step.

 

 

 

Nuke the chicken waterer bowl

 

One more step will assure this chicken waterer bowl is ready to continue service. You can never be too sure. Now there are two chicken waterer bowls to switch out whenever it does get dirty. Anytime the water is in the sun, it is going to get algae in it after a while.