Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List

Automatic Chicken Waterer

The original Automatic Chicken Waterer.

The Automatic Chicken Waterer has been doing well for me and I know that many are viewing my site for the design. Hopefully it inspires ideas into creating a similar or expanded version. The Automatic Chicken Waterer concept can be customized many different ways so there is not one right way, but the right way for YOUR situation. My design uses a 5-gallon bucket as the frame and reservoir.

Below is a parts list for the Automatic Chicken Waterer with the 5-gallon bucket for the frame and reservoir. I tried to put together a few of the options, but make sure and identify what will work for you and your specific situation. I am in South Florida and we deal with heat and sand. The winters are not cold enough to freeze the water, but the summers are hot enough to worry about water that is hot. I keep my automatic chicken waterer shaded for this purpose and the sand has to get washed out periodically by cleaning out or changing the cup.

The Automatic Chicken Waterer is made up of 3 parts. The reservoir, supply, and the cup or bowl. I will identify each of the parts within these labels. I have included links to via affiliate links so just hover over the link to get an idea of what they look like. Also some parts may not be priced efficiently and may be better to get at your local hardware store.

Automatic Chicken Waterer Reservoir

The reservoir in my design is a 5 gallon bucket. Any “tank-like” item that is big enough, will hold water, keep light out, and be able to be covered will do. You also need to be able to drill through it. I would use a black bucket for the purpose of not letting any light in. A lighter colored bucket would be good if you are able to put the reservoir in a hidden location that doesn’t get any direct sunlight. Again, you would customize it to your situation.
5 Gallon White Bucket & Lid – Durable 90 Mil All Purpose Pail – Food Grade – BPA Free Plastic –
Black bucket only – Hydrofarm HG5G 5-Gallon Black Bucket
Black bucket only – Encore Plastics 250003 Bucket Space Black 5 Gallon
Black bucket with lid – Dynamic Enviro Paintware KK053000 5-Gallon Enviro Recycled Plastic Pail Lid
Blue bucket with lid – Petco Bucket, 5 gallons, Color: Blue
Black bucket with screw on lid – Bucket Kit, One Black 5 Gallon Bucket with Black Gamma Seal Lid
Screw on lid to retrofit 5-gallon bucket – The Gamma Seal Lid, Black
Here is a heater for a 2-10 gallon aquarium in case you are in snow country – Tetra 26447 Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt


Automatic Chicken Waterer Supply

The supply consists of either a water hose or hard line water supply, or even a combination of both. You could run pvc from the automatic chicken waterer to a select location and then a water hose from there (so you could remove it when you want to and not worry that it is running water all the time). Then either a toilet fill valve, which is in my design, or just a way to fill it with water periodically. There are other types of float valves out there, but the toilet fill valves are straight up and down, and already have a way to hook up to a water supply line. This section will take us from hooking up to a water source (or not) to filling the reservoir.

Toilet Fill Valve – Float valve

Standard toilet fill valve – Fluidmaster 400A Anti-Siphon Toilet Tank Fill Valve

Drill Hole for Toilet Fill Valve

1″ paddle bit to drill the hole for the toilet supply valve and also for drilling the thru-wall for the cup – DEWALT DW1582 1-Inch by 6-Inch Spade Drill Bit

Water Supply Line

The following three items are the same, but each is a little different type. 7/8″ to connect to the toilet supply valve, then a 3/8″ compression (which typically hooks up to the supply valve on the wall behind the toilet). This is strictly to get from the toilet fill valve to regular pvc (the 7/8″ thread does not exist in pvc that I know of, there may be a brass fitting somewhere, but I have not been able to find one) then everything is pretty standard from there.
Fluidmaster PRO1T12CS Click-Seal Stainless Steel 12-Inch Toilet Supply Line
This one appears to have metal connections on both ends – Aviditi 30462AVI Stainless Steel Braided Supply Line for Toilet with Brass Steel Nuts, 3/8-Inch Compression by 12-Inch
Fluidmaster B1T12 Toilet Connector, Braided Stainless Steel – 3/8″ Female Compression Thread x 7/8″ Female Ballcock Thread, 12″ Length

Water Supply Line to PVC thread

So now we are past the toilet fill valve and getting to regular pvc – the first thing we have to do is go from compression to pipe thread. The following 3 items will get from the 3/8″ compression at the end of the toilet supply hose to 1/2″ Female pipe thread, which can then be taken 100 different directions. PVC parts are better chosen at your local hardware store where you can put the parts together and make sure you have the right sizes and parts to build what you want.
Watts LFA124 Compression Male Adapter, 3/8-Inch OD x 1/2-Inch MIP
Brasscraft 66-6-8X 3/8 OD by 1/2-Inch Female Reducing Adapter Lead-Free, Rough Brass
This achieves the same thing, but is a valve (just like the one probably in your house) – LDR 537 6101 Low Lead Shut Off Street Valve 3/8-Inch Compression x 1/2-Inch FIP, Chrome

Standard PVC Fittings to Water Supply Source

I am going to go 1/2″ pvc to the ball valve (which will give me control out at the waterer or near it) then 3/4″ from there. You can move into 3/4″ anytime by finding the right parts.

To go directly to a water hose

1/2″ male to male nipple – Banjo NIP150-SH Polypropylene Pipe Fitting, Short Nipple, Schedule 80, 1-1/2″ NPT Male, 2-1/2″ Length
1/2″ female to 3/4″ female water hose (the female end of the water hose usually comes out of the water hose valve so you would have the male end to connect to) – Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose Fitting, Swivel, 3/4″ Female Hose ID x 1/2″ Female Pipe

To go directly to pvc piping

1/2″ male to slip pvc – LDR FP4 MA-112 PVC Male Adapter, 1-1/2-Inch Slip x Slip x MIP
2 feet of 1/2″ pvc – Charlotte Pipe Pvc Sch 40 Solid Pipe 1/2 ” X 2 ‘
1/2″ threaded ball valve – Homewerks VBV-P40-B3B Ball Valve, PVC Schedule 40, Female Thread x Female Thread, 1/2-Inch
1/2″ slip ball valve – PVC Schedule 40 Slip Ball Valve. Size: 1/2 inch
Now go from 1/2″ slip to female water hose thread – LASCO 15-1621 PVC Hose Adapter with 3/4-Inch Female Hose and 1/2-Inch PVC Pipe Glue Connection


Automatic Chicken Waterer Cup

This portion is not under pressure. For this section I am using 3/4″ pvc because the fitting is bigger and seals better on the bucket or reservoir. The 1/2″ fitting is too small, though it may work in your application. PVC parts are better chosen at your local hardware store where you can put the parts together and make sure you have the right sizes and parts to build what you want.
The cup or bowl is where the chickens or other pets would actually drink out of. The automatic chicken waterer needs to be situated so the chickens do not use it as a roost, or roost above it. I was able to salvage an old wooden table to put my automatic chicken waterer under, so this provided shade and the chickens cannot get on top of it, but can easily get in to drink as much as they want.

Thru-wall fittings

The way I have done it.
3/4″ male threads to put into the reservoir – 3/4″ slip to build cup (this same fitting will be used to fill the actual bowl) – LDR FP4 MA-34 PVC Male Adapter, 3/4-Inch Slip x Slip x MIP I believe I put the slip side in the bucket with the threads out.
Rubber gasket material – You will also use this to seal to the bowl or cup LASCO 02-1048E Rubber Sheet, 6X6-Inch and 1/16-Inch Thick I put the gasket inside the bucket so the fitting would press against it and never let the water out.
3/4″ female thread to tighten and seal to bucket – The most important thing with this is the female threads to lock and seal the pvc fitting into the reservoir so several different fittings can be used (except a cap) – LDR FP4 FA-34 Female Adapter, 3/4-Inch PVC Slip x FIP So at this point you could be slip or threads.

A way you may want to try – seems to be a little more sleek and may also work with the bowl or cup as well.
3/4″ thru-wall assembly – This should have 3/4″ female thread inside- Lifegard Aquatics 3/4-Inch Double Threaded Bulkhead

Misc. 3/4″ PVC Fittings

3/4″ pipe – Charlotte Pipe Pvc Sch 40 Solid Pipe 3/4 ” X 2 ‘
3/4″ Tee slip – LDR FP4 T-34 PVC Slip Tee, 3/4-Inch
3/4″ Tee threaded – Lasco 405-007 0.75 in. PVC Threaded Tee
3/4″ cap slip – LDR FP4 CA-34 PVC Slip Cap, 3/4-Inch
3/4″ cap threaded – Can’t find one on Amazon
3/4″ nipple 2″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 2″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 3″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 3″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 4″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 4″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 5″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 5″ Length, 3/4″ MPT
3/4″ nipple 6″ – GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 80, Gray, 6″ Length, 3/4″ MPT

Automatic Chicken Waterer Cup

The cup can be any stronger plastic recycled item. I like to find things that will be thrown away and drill a 1″ hole through it. The cup has to be tall enough for the high water not to overflow and the low water not to run completely out. The fill valve can be adjusted so it does not have so much of a spread between the time it turns on(low water in the bowl) and the time it shuts off(full)
These should work good – Glad Food Storage Containers, Tall Entree, 3 Count
You can also use this with the watering nipples already in place – BriteTap Chicken Waterer The description says to just drill a 5/8″ hole – here is a 5/8″ bit – Bosch Daredevil DSBS1007 5/8-Inch by 4-Inch Stubby Spade Bit

Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List Short Version

Reservoir – I used a black 5-gallon bucket with a drywall bucket lid (it just snaps on)
Water supply – Toilet fill valve, 1-inch paddle or spade bit to drill hole, toilet supply line 7/8″ x 3/8″ compression, 3/8″ male compression x 1/2″ female pipe thread fitting, 1/2″ pvc piping to 1/2″ ball valve, to my water supply or you can fit it to the hose.
Cup or Bowl – 3/4″ male thread x 3/4″ slip + custom rubber gasket + 3/4″ female x 3/4″ slip (to go through bucket), 3/4″ piping to 3/4″ tee slip, down to cap to stabilize bowl, up to 3/4″ slip x 3/4″ male threads through bowl + custom rubber gasket + 3/4″ female x 3/4″ slip + 3/4″ pipe up to a Tee to easier remove bowl or cup for cleaning or replacement (See T-handle Post), The cup or bowl is tall enough so the spread in the fill valve can fill and empty, and big enough around so the chickens can get in and drink around the T-handle. I have used Tupperware, Gladware, and recycled drink containers that I cut the bottom off of.

Chicken Fence – How High Should It Be?

Your Chicken Fence should be as high as it needs to be to keep those chickens in and the critters out. My chicken fence is 7′ tall and is still not high enough. I made the fence very high so the chickens could not get out. I was letting the chickens out so they could feed on the ground, but they were digging these deep holes. So I finally stopped letting them out. Then I find 2 chickens are out all the time and I have to keep putting them back in. I finally found them to be just flying over the fence. This is in another post video-chicken-escaping-7-fence-re-entering. They were just literally, flying over the chicken fence. So I cut their wings. I have a post developing on this, but is just for entertainment as there are plenty of informative chicken wing cutting posts out there.

Chicken Fence Woes!

Everything was good for a while, I started to relax about it. Then one day I noticed one of the chickens out of the fenced area just having a good old time scratching and pecking. What is going on? What do I have to do to keep these chickens in this fenced area? So I watched and waited and I finally figured out that they were going under the chicken fence. Here we go again. This is the video that I have here for you. I plugged up the hole with a stick and a rock, then just one day later, another episode. I plugged that hole and have not had any more  incidents. Let’s see how long this lasts.

I have read that once you let your chickens free range, that they don’t want to be caged up. I know that the chickens that get out first have been free ranged before. The followers are just taking advantage of the situations.

Chicken Fence Height – Link to good article

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs – Long Version

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs. This is a simple method that can be duplicated time and again to consistently boil eggs for deviled eggs. It all starts with the eggs. The best eggs are the ones that come from your chickens, but you can also buy eggs at the store.

Start with Empty water before putting in the eggs



Start with an empty pot of water and turn the burner on. Stove  burner should be turned on HIGH.
Add Eggs to the water




Put the eggs in the water as you turn on the stove.

Boil eggs for Deviled Eggs.






Now all the eggs are in the pot and it will take a minute or two to get to a rolling boil.



Raging boil for boiling eggs


Let the water come to a rolling boil and as soon as the rolling boil starts, time for 3 MINUTES.

Turn off the stove.

Let sit 10 minutes on the stove.

Rinse the eggs with cold water



Rinse with cold water – tap water from faucet on cold.

Drain the pot full of eggs




Drain out water and repeat process a time or two.






Swirl the pot with the eggs and water. This will crack the eggs slightly and allow some of the water to enter between the egg and shell.


Flush – swirl – flush – swirl – 2 or 3 times.

Put the boiled eggs in the fridge





Empty water, put in another container and place in the fridge.


Short Version – How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs



How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs. This is a simple method that can be duplicated time and again so you can consistently boil eggs for deviled eggs. It all starts with the eggs. The best eggs
Boil eggs for Deviled Eggs. are the ones that come from your chickens, but you don’t have to own chickens to get eggs. Deviled eggs are a great addition to any function or get together.

  1. Put the eggs in the water as you turn on the stove. Stove should be turned on HIGH.
  2. Let the water come to a rolling boil and as soon as the rolling boil starts, time for 3 MINUTES.
  3. Turn off the stove.
  4. Let sit 10 minutes on the stove.
  5. Rinse with cold water – tap water from faucet on cold.
  6. Swirl the pot with the eggs and water. This will crack the eggs slightly and allow some of the water to enter between the egg and shell.
  7. Flush – swirl – flush – swirl – 2 or 3 times.
  8. Empty water and place in the fridge.

How to Boil Eggs for Deviled Eggs – Long Version

Chicken Waterer – Changing the Bowl on the Homemade Automatic Chicken Waterer

Looking for Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List?

This is what makes this Chicken Waterer unique. You can remove the bowl, wash it, replace it, or then put it back. It also makes it so that it can be upgraded or changed, if it is not working like it needs to for whatever you are trying to provide water to. Chickens need clean water.

Chicken Waterer Still Kicking


This chicken waterer has been cleaned out a couple of times since it was installed about a year ago. Mostly by just swishing out the dirt. Sometimes the bowl would come off the waterer so that the dirt could be washed out. There is only dirt in here, and it is from the chickens having it on their beaks. It was placed under a shade maker so they would not try to roost on it. It seemed to work, as there has not been any poop in it so far. This has worked out very well as we have not had to “worry” about the water. Of course, we still feed and collect eggs every day, but this has really helped.

Chicken Waterer out of anything

This is an ordinary container. It has a little height to it, and also some width. It just needs enough to hold the depth of water for the toilet fill valve to spread, around 3″ or so. Then it needs to be wide enough for the chickens to get their head in and around the fill pipe.



1 inch paddle bit to drill hole for Chicken Waterer

The 1 inch paddle bit is the perfect size to drill the hole for the cup to change out for the chicken waterer. Using 3/4″ thread, the one inch hole fits it perfectly. The paddle bit will drift, so go slow. The drilling creates heat and starts melting the plastic. Notice there is a board underneath. This helps stabilize the bowl, but it still wants to drift.



Remove the chicken waterer bowl


Unscrew the Chicken Waterer T-handle and remove the existing bowl from the chicken waterer system. Let the system flush and rinse it off as desired. Having the other bowl or cup ready will limit the waste of water. It is good to flush the system out anyway.


Chicken waterer cup is overflowing





As you can see, the top of the water line has changed, due to the different size of the chicken waterer cup. This can be tackled with some adjustments to the toilet fill valve.


Adjust the chicken waterer toilet valve



There is an adjustment screw, or a holding clamp to adjust the depth of the float. If the water is overflowing, you want the float to go down so it will turn off sooner. It may only take a little to get it to turn off where you want it.


The finished chicken waterer bowl





The chicken waterer bowl is installed and is clean as a whistle. Now this bowl can serve as a spare when the other bowl is being cleaned.

Wash the old chicken waterer bowl


Wash out all the dirt from the old bowl.






Use mold and mildew cleaner for chicken waterer bowl



Any mold and mildew cleaner has a little chlorine in it, which will kill the algae. This is a good way to have two chicken waterer bowls that are real easy to change out and clean.


Chicken waterer bowl nice and clean



Now the chicken waterer bowl is nice and clean, ready for the next step.




Nuke the chicken waterer bowl


One more step will assure this chicken waterer bowl is ready to continue service. You can never be too sure. Now there are two chicken waterer bowls to switch out whenever it does get dirty. Anytime the water is in the sun, it is going to get algae in it after a while.

Escape from Poultry Prison – Extreme Chicken Fence

Golden Chicken found a hole in the fence



This golden chicken was getting out almost every day, and we could not figure out why. Then we finally saw her go right through the fence. We had used some fencing that was 5″ or so and the wire was not set in place. So at various locations the holes in the fence could be bigger. We just happened across her going right through. She is the only chicken out of the bunch that was doing this.

Small square plastic Chicken Fence liner



This fence liner works well. It is a very light duty screen, 1″ x 1″ or so. All that is needed is a deterrant. The other fence stands up almost by itself, so now just filling in the holes. This is probably used more for temporary fencing, but works well in this application as a secondary barrier.Construction Fence to secure Chicken Fence



This bright orange construction fence works very well also. The only problem is that it can be seen for a very long distance. Wanting to keep the chicken area discreet for neighbors, passers by, and also animals, may be a challenge using this fence supplement. It works very well though, and is easy to apply. A couple of wire ties here and there and it is installed.



Chicken Fence – installing chicken fence

Chicken Fence – Installing more chicken fence


Chicken Waterer IMPROVEMENT: How to build an Automatic Chicken Watering device – T-Handle

Looking for Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List?

All parts to the T-handle




There are only 3 parts. The female thread to slip fitting, the short piece of pipe, and the Tee.

Glue the parts together






Glue all the parts together. Make sure it is solid, because there will be pressure on it in the future.
Drill holes in the T-handle





Drill the holes. These holes can be variable in size. They should be small enough to fit in the pipe and large enough so they don’t get clogged if trash gets in the lines. Holes should be drilled just above the threads.
Finished holes in the T-handle





Holes look good. It is time to install.
Turn off the water supply to the Automatic Chicken Watering System






Turn off the water. Always install control for the water close.
Remove the existing cup holder






Remove the fitting that is holding the cup on now. As you can see, it is hard to get off and needs a tool. Not good.
Go ahead and clean the cup





Go ahead and clean the cup while it is off. It might be a good idea to put some teflon tape on the threads, just to keep it “by the book”.






Put on the new T-handle. It should go on pretty easy.

It is working






Turn on the water. The water should be coming out of the holes we drilled.
Now the Chickens are happy once again





Now this is the most important part, that is does not interfere with the chickens drinking the water. It will now be a little easier to clean out the cup.

Improvement to: How to make an Automatic Chicken Waterer – Mobile drinking station

Looking for Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List?

This segment is an addition to the other segments on How to Make an Automatic Chicken or Bird watering system. In the last few posts, we built the initial reservoir and drinking cup. Now we can use the tee we left capped and run a mobile drinking station inside one of the coops. This can be duplicated many times over. The hose cannot be higher than the top of the water in the reservoir or the cups at any time or it won’t work.All parts to the mobile chicken drinking station
Sprinkler housing has drain holes







The sprinkler housing is the best option I found, because it has a lip and already has a threaded insert on the bottom or the side.
Now for the Frame




Starting the frame, the cup will sit on this at the lip.
Make the frame to remove the cup easily




Make the keeper so the cup can be removed. This cup can be many other things, but it needs to have room for the birds to drink and have an insert for the water feed.
The top level of the cup has to equal the top level of the water





The level has to go down when it gets placed.
Expose the tee of the drinking station




Expose the tee we left in the line. The most important guide line is the top of the water.
drain the drinking station




Drain the water so the hose fitting can get installed.

hose is hooked up to the chicken mobile drinking station






Hose is hooked up, it is time to get it into the other coop.

sprinkler cup has two options




Set the cap and the barbed fitting to wherever you want. My installation was better on the side, because I had to dig it down.
get the hose into the chicken coop




Get the hose into the other place. Be sure the hose never gets above the top level of the water at any time.
bury the hose to keep it cool





Burying the hose will keep you from tripping over it and keep it cool. It also keeps the sun from wearing it out.

top of the cup is where we want it




We want the water as close to the top as possible, without going over. This way there will be more the chickens won’t have to get way down there.
perspective - put it where it needs to go




The frame allows you to move the cup up and down until it is right. Then you can fasten it where you want.

dump out the cup to clean




Dump out the cup to get all the sand out. This will have to be done periodically to clean.

chickens are drinking from the cup






They know where the water is now.



Make a T-handle for the main cup

RESULTS: How to Build an Automatic Chicken Watering System – INSTALLED

Looking for Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List?

It is just sand and debris NO POOP!

Now we have a field tested Automatic Chicken Watering System. It works great! I have since only found a couple of flaws, which are not that bad. The flaws are definitely not worth going back to the old method. As you can see the water is not clean and clear. The good thing is there is not any poop in this water. Most of what you see is sand and debris that is on the chicken’s beak when they drink. you can also see a hint of algae on the top side of the bowl.

Just a little agitation to clean it up


As long as there is not poop in this cup, I am not afraid to put my hand in it and swoosh it out! It only takes a minute to splash all the sand and debris out of the cup.
More and More agitation




Keep going, not there yet. One of my designs that will be featured in the coming days is a flexible hose for the cup assembly. This flexible system will allow for the cup to be emptied out and turned back over to be ready once again. The sun will always create algae, and I see this as a future problem.

Starting to see some clarity




Now it is starting to clean up a little. The sand just takes some more agitation to get out.
Automatically Fills Back Up - NICE!





This is the best part.

Ready for Action once again!






OK – We are finished and it is time to move on to the next activity. You can see now in this photo that the bowl is leaning a little. It has not affected anything, because it is not overflowing. A little adjustment to the Toilet Fill Valve and it will be good again. My next project is a tee handle to make it easier to remove the cup and clean.
The next article on How to build an Automatic Watering System for Chickens will be focused on a cup attached to a hose or flexible pipe to move as needed. It is here Now!

Make a T-handle for the main cup

Automatic Waterer for your Chickens, Ducks, Peacocks, Dogs, Cats, Goats, Pets, Emus, Ostrich, Pheasants, and more – 5

Looking for Automatic Chicken Waterer Parts List?

Water Supply with control


The most important part of this project is a constant water supply. This water supply is under pressure. I am not sure if a standard toilet fill valve will work on a low pressure or gravity feed system. It could be tested with a few fittings and an afternoon. The ball valve is important in case this thing tips over or the bucket or cup develops a crack. Then the water can be shut off at the source and still have water in the chicken coop area.

Water supply to the Bucket Reservior ready


All the water supply lines are in place and ready to place the bucket reservior in place and connect. I turned the water on one time to flush the line and have nice fresh water for my new valve. I am sure the sand is not friendly to it.
We have power






Ok. The bucket is now filling up and we can field test the cup assembly. The valve can be adjusted now for the top height of the water to come up or down by 1 or 2 inches. The spread is still about 3 1/2″.
It is working



Ok we are in business for the moment. Water is coming into the cup. This is a plus. Now to see what happens next.




I think this is going to work it is not stopping yet



Still filling up and seems to be working. Is this it?
Toilet fill Valve needs some Adjustment





Here we go, filled up to the top and is running over. Time to adjust the toilet fill valve and bring the water level down an inch or so.
Water is Good!








We have a Winner!





Seems to be working out, the other watering device is right there. All dirty as usual. They have been drinking out of the other one for almost a year now. I tried to put the new automatic watering system in a position where they cannot poop in it.

Business as Usual





Added a lid and we are now on a path to better living. This project was well worth the effort. I had many ideas and PVC seems to bring it together. PVC also helps it to be servicable. A cup or other contraption could have been caulked in place, but that can never be cleaned without turning it all upside down. I have an idea for a tee handle to be put on the threaded coupler inside the cup so it can be removed easier. After a few days it did not want to come off.
Link to the next Automatic Chicken Watering System article with several weeks of use.

Make a T-handle for the main cup